Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care

E. Desmond Goddard, James V. Gruber9780824719234, 0-8247-1923-9

Introduces the fundamentals of polymers, including their classification, molecular weight definitions, thermodynamics, rheology, and properties in the solid and semi-solid state. A fundamental resource for polymer scientists and formulation chemists. DLC: Cosmetics

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Table of contents :
Table of Contents……Page 0
Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care……Page 2
Series Introduction……Page 8
Preface……Page 10
Contributors……Page 16
Contents……Page 14
INTRODUCTION……Page 17
Natural and Synthetic Polymers……Page 18
Definitions and Nomenclature……Page 20
Step- Growth Polymerization……Page 22
Chain- Growth Polymerization……Page 24
Polymerization Kinetics……Page 25
Polymer Analog Reactions……Page 28
Types of Molecular Weight……Page 29
Experimental Methods for Determining Molecular Weight and Molecular Weight Distribution……Page 30
Polymer Morphology……Page 31
Rheology and Mechanical Properties of Polymers……Page 37
POLYMER SOLUTIONS……Page 41
Thermodynamics of Polymers in Solution……Page 42
Size and Shape of Polymers in Solution……Page 48
Rheology of Polymer Solutions……Page 52
REFERENCES……Page 59
APPENDIX I: GLOSSARY……Page 62
APPENDIX II: Definitions of Terms Commonly Used in Polymer Science……Page 63
GENERAL FEATURES OF POLYMER ADSORPTION……Page 67
DRIVING FORCE FOR ADSORPTION……Page 68
van der Waals Forces……Page 69
Electrostatic Forces……Page 70
DISPERSION STABILITY……Page 71
Steric Stabilization……Page 72
Charge Neutralization……Page 73
Homopolymer Adsorption……Page 74
Copolymer Adsorption……Page 75
Polyelectrolyte Adsorption……Page 77
VII. KINETICS……Page 78
General Considerations……Page 80
The Adsorbed Amount,……Page 81
The Thickness of the Adsorbed Layer,……Page 82
The Bound Fraction,……Page 84
The Volume Fraction Profile……Page 85
REFERENCES……Page 87
INTRODUCTION……Page 88
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF POLYMERIC SURFACTANTS……Page 90
GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF POLYMERIC SURFACTANTS……Page 91
SOLUTION PROPERTIES OF POLYMERIC SURFACTANTS……Page 92
ADSORPTION AND CONFORMATION OF POLYMERIC SURFACTANTS AT INTERFACES……Page 94
INTERACTION BETWEEN PARTICLES ( DROPLETS) CONTAINING ADSORBED POLYMER LAYERS ( STERIC STABILIZATION)……Page 99
RHEOLOGY OF EMULSIONS STABILIZED WITH POLYMERIC SURFACTANTS……Page 102
Basic Equations for Interfacial Rheology……Page 105
Basic Principles of Measurement of Interfacial Rheology……Page 107
Correlation of Interfacial Rheology with Emulsion Stability……Page 110
INVESTIGATIONS OF BULK RHEOLOGY OF EMULSION SYSTEMS……Page 112
Viscosity- Volume Fraction Relationship for o/ w and w/ o Emulsions……Page 113
Viscoelastic Properties of Concentrated o/ w and w/ o Emulsions……Page 116
Viscoelastic Properties of Weakly Flocculated Emulsions……Page 120
POLYMERIC SURFACTANTS IN MULTIPLE EMULSIONS……Page 122
SUMMARY……Page 124
REFERENCES……Page 126
Surfactants……Page 128
Interaction: Preliminary Remarks……Page 130
SOME EXPERIMENTAL METHODS AND BASIC OBSERVATIONS……Page 131
Uncharged Polymers……Page 132
Polyelectrolyte/ Surfactant Mixtures……Page 141
Hydrophobically Modified Water- Soluble Polymers……Page 151
Proteins……Page 161
FACTORS AFFECTING THE ASSOCIATION REACTION……Page 167
Surfactant Structure……Page 168
The Polymer……Page 170
Polymer Structure……Page 172
Added Salt……Page 173
Early Work……Page 175
Uncharged Polymers……Page 176
Polyelectrolytes……Page 178
Proteins……Page 182
FINAL REMARKS……Page 185
REFERENCES……Page 189
Commercial Polymers……Page 194
Index of Surfactants……Page 195
Hair……Page 196
Skin……Page 199
Suspensions……Page 203
FOAMS……Page 208
Charged Polymers……Page 209
” Hydrophobic” Polymers……Page 212
EMULSIONS……Page 213
DETERGENCY……Page 214
MILDNESS: REDUCTION OF MONOMER CONCENTRATION……Page 215
Unmodified Polymers……Page 218
” Hydrophobic” Polymers……Page 220
General……Page 222
Cloud Point Elevation……Page 223
SEPARATION AND PURIFICATION OF POLYMERS……Page 224
Polymer Activation by Deionization: pH ‘‘Switches’’……Page 225
Dendrimer/ Surfactant Complexes……Page 226
REFERENCES……Page 227
Synthetic Monomers……Page 231
Influences of the Surrounding Formulation……Page 236
Thickening Polymers……Page 237
Introduction……Page 262
Evolving Aerosol Legislation……Page 263
Challenges for Low- VOC Fixative Products……Page 267
Introduction……Page 272
Synthetic Conditioning Polymers……Page 273
Encapsulating Polyesters……Page 278
REFERENCES……Page 280
INTRODUCTION……Page 289
PHYSICOCHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF SILICONES……Page 290
EVOLUTION OF SILICONES IN PERSONAL CARE……Page 294
NOMENCLATURE……Page 295
Formation of Siloxanes……Page 299
Functionalized Silicones……Page 301
Emulsions……Page 305
Volatile Silicones……Page 306
Dimethicone Polymers……Page 308
Dimethicone Copolyol……Page 310
Amine Functionalized Silicones……Page 313
Alkyl- Modified Silicones……Page 319
Silicone Resins……Page 322
Summary……Page 325
SAFETY AND ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS……Page 326
Polydimethylsiloxanes……Page 329
Polyether- Modified Silicones……Page 330
Conclusions……Page 331
REFERENCES……Page 332
INTRODUCTION……Page 339
Defining a Polysaccharide……Page 340
POLYSACCHARIDE FUNCTIONALITY……Page 345
Anionic Polysaccharides……Page 347
Cationic Polysaccharides……Page 365
Nonionic Polysaccharides……Page 371
Amphoteric Polysaccharides……Page 384
Hydrophobically Modified Polysaccharides……Page 386
Polysaccharides with Topical Physiological Effects……Page 391
REFERENCES……Page 394
Historical Use of Proteins in Cosmetics……Page 404
Animal, Vegetable, and Other Sources……Page 405
Extraction, Hydrolysis, Derivatization……Page 414
Molecular Characteristics……Page 432
Physicochemical Properties……Page 440
General Aspects……Page 442
Protein- Skin Interactions……Page 444
Protein- Hair Interactions……Page 446
Proteins in Detergency……Page 456
Proteins in Skin Care Products……Page 459
Proteins in Hair Care Products……Page 461
Proteins in Cleansing Products……Page 463
Technical Uses of Proteins in Cosmetic Formulations……Page 464
Stability and Possible Interactions……Page 465
Toxicological Aspects of Proteins in Cosmetic Applications……Page 467
The Risk of Chemical and Biological Contaminants in Protein Ingredients……Page 468
REFERENCES……Page 471
SURFACTANTS AS A MODEL……Page 478
SURFACE OF HAIR AND STRATUM CORNEUM ( SC)……Page 479
The Early Period: Radiotracers……Page 480
The Current Period……Page 493
FINAL COMMENTS……Page 515
WHAT OF THE FUTURE?……Page 518
REFERENCES……Page 519
EXPERIMENTAL……Page 522
Hair……Page 523
Cotton……Page 527
Rayon……Page 529
Nylon……Page 530
DISCUSSION……Page 532
Sorption as a Charge Attraction Process……Page 533
Orientation of the Sorbed Layers……Page 534
REFERENCES……Page 535
INTRODUCTION……Page 537
Cortex……Page 538
Cell Membrane Complex……Page 539
Cuticle……Page 540
Surface Energy……Page 542
Dynamic Electrokinetic and Permeability Analysis ( DEPA)……Page 545
Microfluorometry……Page 549
Intercuticular Cohesion……Page 553
Frictional Properties……Page 554
Interfiber Adhesion……Page 561
Combing Forces……Page 562
Body Evaluation……Page 564
Electrostatic Charge Generation……Page 568
Luster or Shine of Hair……Page 573
Scale Angle Measurement……Page 577
CONCLUDING REMARKS……Page 579
REFERENCES……Page 580
Appendix: Encyclopedia of Polymers and Thickeners for Cosmetics……Page 583
NATURALS AND MODIFIED NATURALS……Page 584
SYNTHETICS……Page 618